Guides
Everything you need to get your rig on track, explained without waffle. If you cannot find the answer, write to us.
Before you buy
Three choices actually matter: platform, brake type and knobs. The rest is taste.
Which combo is right for me?
It depends on where you play and which wheel you own. The configurator only shows the options compatible with your setup, so you cannot order the wrong thing.
- PC: USB connection, recognised instantly, no drivers. Here you have full freedom on the brake type.
- PlayStation and Xbox: you need the control board made for your wheel brand, because the shifter replaces the original one.
On/off or progressive analogue handbrake?
On PC you can choose. The progressive one reads how far you pull the lever and modulates the braking: essential in Richard Burns Rally and in any rally where the handbrake has to be metered to set up a slide.
The on/off one is more direct and cheaper: the brake engages past a certain travel. Perfect for drifting and for anyone who uses the handbrake as an all-or-nothing control.
Which knob should I pick?
It is a matter of taste and grip — none is “better”, they just feel different.
- Standard: the most popular, classic ball grip, suits everything.
- R5: echoes modern rally cars, a more technical profile.
- Cylindrical: vertical grip, excellent for the sequential shifter.
- “T” shape: wide two-finger grip, the most immediate for the handbrake.
- FPS v2 and v3: our own designs, the best compromise between travel and palm support.
Mounting
Three ways, from the most rigid to the most reversible. All you need is a spanner and five minutes.
- On a cockpit: four M6 bolts through the holes in the base. The most rigid fixing: the lever will not flex even under a hard pull.
- On a desk: with the table kit, a screw clamp, no drilling. Off in ten seconds when you need the desk back.
- On aluminium profiles: with the dedicated plate, adjustable in position and angle without drilling.
Which side should the handbrake go on?
Wherever it feels natural to take your hand off the wheel. In real cars the lever usually sits to the right of the seat, but in sim racing all that matters is reaching it without moving your torso. The frame is symmetrical: it mounts on either side.
Setting it up in games
Nothing to install: the system sees the device and you assign the controls inside the game.
On PC
The connection is USB and Windows recognises it on its own. Then, in the game:
- open the controls settings;
- select the handbrake entry and pull the lever when the game asks for input;
- for the shifter, assign shift up and shift down by moving the lever;
- if your brake is analogue, check the game reads it as an axis and not a button — otherwise you lose the progression.
On PlayStation and Xbox
The shifter connects in place of the original one on your wheel, through the board for that brand. The game sees it as the stock shifter, so no extra setup is needed.
No input is showing: what should I check?
- Try another USB port, directly on the machine rather than through a hub.
- On Windows open Game controllers and check the axis or button moves in the test panel: if it moves there, the problem is the in-game assignment.
- Close any wheel software that grabs inputs exclusively.
Field of view (FOV)
With too wide a FOV you see a lot, but everything looks far away: you lose the sense of speed and miss your apexes. With the geometrically correct one, in-game distances match real ones and your lap times get consistent. Use the FOV calculator to find your number.
Care and spare parts
These are metal parts built to last: maintenance is close to zero.
Routine maintenance
A dry cloth on the frame and, once a year, a film of lithium grease on the sliding points. No solvents on painted or anodised parts.
Warranty and spares
Two-year warranty on every product. Spares stay available after the warranty expires too: springs, knobs, fasteners and boards are replaced individually, not as a whole unit.
Something missing?
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